Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
